Oh I see, I just searched the forums and the info there is sparse
Thanks
Oh I see, I just searched the forums and the info there is sparse
Thanks
Based on a very brief glance at this it looks like I would be reliant on self hosting it to circumvent the need for a BAA (although the hosting company may still need to provide one, unless I literally hosted it from my house or something?) not sure
Will investigate further, had not heard of this
You can replace just the touch bar, I’ve done it, but it’s a nightmare. Much cheaper and less waste though
That thing is seriously glued on. Like people complain about the battery adhesive but it’s not really that bad, some solvent takes it out pretty quick on most models (though it’s still not necessary and would be much better if it was just screwed into place). That touch bar though, that glue is crazy and any solvent or heat you use has to be super carefully managed because you’ll melt the keys very easily. Some tutorials have you basically just smash the shit out of it and scrape away the resulting shards but that seemed like a bad idea.
For the record I did heat from the rear and light application of acetone. Took a bit but I was able to pry it up although I did break the first couple. Doesn’t matter really but it can make it harder to prep the space for the new one.
Also fun times: on some models if the touch bar glitches out it shorts the motherboard and causes random reboots
It is generally best to keep an entirely separate account for professional dealings so such things are segregated, at least that’s what I do
Signal as a zoom replacement would be great but a big part of the deal would be the necessity for hipaa compliance. I would imagine a huge part of what keeps zoom alive is financial injections from telehealth provides like myself that need a platform that is hipaa compliant that patients understand. EMR software often comes with a telehealth platform built in nowadays but it tends to not work as well and confuses the tech illiterate who got trained on zoom during COVID years.
I’m sure there’s a ton of stuff they have to do on their end to be hipaa compliant that I’m ignorant of but the primary thing is that they have to share a document called a business associate agreement (baa) with me that essentially says they will take meaningful steps to appropriately safeguard any protected health information and makes zoom liable if a breach of their systems exposes PHI.
This is why telehealth can’t (technically, people still do it) occur over teams, skype, discord, facetime, hangouts, etc. google, apple, microsoft, etc have no interest in taking on that liability.
The difficult piece will be challenging zooms pricing. They offer healthcare zoom for $15/mo with BAA. There are better deals though, doxy.me does it for free (they claim this is subsidized by paid account which I believe because they are substantially more than zoom starting at 35/mo).
Would be a great way to get them a revenue stream too. I don’t know anyone who practices heavily telemedicine that relies on free solutions; the only ones I know that utilize the bundled emr components or the free doxy.me service are clinicians that mostly practice in person and only do a small handful of telehealth sessions a month, like under 10% of their total billing. For people like me where it’s 50-100% of their billing it’s almost always a paid subscription. more reliable, tax deduction, and access to support
I agree with you in that it wouldn’t stifled the same way but I still think it would be an inherently flawed measure in determining the true number of cases, which is probably impossible. Going back to my original post even if you allowed anonymous reporting I’m betting a lot of partners would still not speak out due to intimidation and you would probably get some false positives (though admittedly this is probably significantly less of a concern)
Doesn’t mean it’s not worth doing as it would probably get you something closer to an accurate number but the accurate number is likely impossible to measure
In response to this I would say that the studies here overrely on self report, which is inherently flawed when asking someone to report on a character flaw
I go back the philosophical question: if you beat your partner would you reveal this to an academic who is going to put it on the record?
Some may, but a lot won’t. Inherently flawed.
Statistics are hard to determine on domestic violence
The “40% of cops beat their wives” probably comes from this:
https://files.eric.ed.gov/fulltext/ED338997.pdf
A congressional hearing where a professor testified that officers were asked if they had “gotten out of control and behaved violently towards their spouses or children within the last 6 months” and approximately 40% said yes. This is vaguely worded and while acting violently towards your family is shitty regardless there are a number of ways to interpret that question (beat them regularly, slapped them, yell at them, berate them, isolated incidents vs consistent campaigns, etc)
There is a concept in experimental design called an operational definition, that a behavior should be defined in such a way that observers trying to measure the variable are clear in what they are trying to measure. “Self injury” is poor on its own, but saying “hand to head hits with closed fist” is quite a bit better (though still can be problematic because sometimes intensity can be a problem but I digress)
Neidig study also found a rate of around 41% and is cited to support the claim but if you read the methodology it’s flawed to do this: the operational definition is much improved but the data for 41% includes violence initiated both by cops and by their spouses. If you only include violence initiated by cops it’s closer to 28%. However this does indicate they create toxic relationships based around violence and mutual violence is not uncommon in domestic abuse. There’s a lot more to dynamics in domestic violence (including power dynamics when the police don’t take dv very seriously and power dynamics when your partner is a member of the police who are supposed to respond the arrest them for doing dv)
So that leads to other experimental design issues here. For one, these are self report and this is likely a huge flaw. Think about it, if you were a person beating your spouse, would you be down to admit that to an academic who is absolutely going to document it?
So there have been other studies to address this that look at crime rates via police reports rather than self reports. These show relatively low rates of about 17%. However, this suffers from the power dynamic flaw above. I worked in domestic abuse support for years and several women I worked with were spouses of police (and firefighters too fwiw). Per these people their spouses were never charged and often gloated about this; the cops were called often and would do anything to resolve the situation except arrest them. They would drive the spouses somewhere else, the would take the cop out drinking (great idea), etc. I do wonder if a report only gets filed when the damage from dv becomes impossible to ignore; when the cop beats their partner or child so badly they requires intense medical attention or the scene becomes so intense it is a public spectacle
The initial research is from the 90s and not much has been done since, likely because working around these design issues is extremely difficult. I genuinely do not know how one would do it in a way that would not introduce a ton of bias and error. The only thing I could even think is that you could interview spouses but that is almost as flawed as the officer self report. I would imagine there is a culture of intimidation there preventing open dialogues plus there is always the chance for false positives I suppose.
Moving to a rack is nice, I love my rack. If you’re in or near a city I suggest keeping an eye on Craigslist and ebay (search by distance nearest and lowball ones that have been sitting for months) because it’s not uncommon for nice racks to go real cheap as long as you come get them. I got my rack realllll cheap ($40, 42u, fully enclosed with massive pdu) because it’s a 90s ibm rack and it’s welded steel so it’s like 450lbs. Moving it was a nightmare but it’s real sturdy and I’m never moving it again now that it’s in my basement
For my goals in the short term I have to replace a sas cable that caused a crc error on one drive, it only happened once per smart data but still want to get that done asap. I also have another drive that’s beginning to show some smart issues; it’s on the same sas cable so it may be related because the errors didn’t increase (they all were related to an unclean shutdown, confusing things) but it’s old anyway so better safe than sorry I guess.
Medium term I want to finally upgrade my ups. The one I have now is not a rack mount which is part of what led to the unclean shutdown. It’s also a bit undersized. I have a generator for my house so I don’t need something massive but the one I have is 450va and several years old so with the tired battery I only can get about 5m of runtime. It’s more than enough to cover the transfer from power cutting out to generator power but I want something that’s a bit more reliable in case of generator failure. This is pricey though because my array is pretty huge so it’ll probably be held off unless I find a good deal on a dead one that has cheap batteries available
I also want to put the rack on its own circuit. This is something I should do asap because it’s cheap, just gotta find time and rearrange my panel a bit because it’s pretty full. This would be the other part of the unclean shutdown as the outlet would be in a much better location and I could also install a locking outlet
Would also be nice to pick up a super cheap monitor locally, like something for $15-20 from a pawn shop or Craigslist or something for the rack. Earlier this year I had nginx crash on my server and the webui became inaccessible, I had to drag my nice and kind of large desktop monitor down to the basement to solve the issue, would be nice to just have a shitty small monitor on the rack for that
Speaking of nginx I keep meaning to setup some kind of reverse proxy or mdns for all my dockers so that I can just do whatever.whatever instead ipaddress:3993 which makes my password managers barf but I’ll probably just be lazy and edit my hosts file
Longer term I want to add a secondary low power server that can run something like pfsense to handle my routing, then turn my current wireless routers into access points because they kind of suck as routers.
And of course the array could always be bigger, especially if drive prices fall
I will probably realistically only do the drive and cable replacement, the circuit thing since that’ll be like $40 and a half hour of work, the monitor if I can find one, and maybe the hosts file thing. If I run into cash (unlikely) or a crazy deal (you never know) the ups would be my next priority but there’s a million other things going in life (deductibles just reset for health insurance, hooray)
I will try this out, thanks!
Any idea if playlists can directly work in external but non Jellyfin apps like finamp or kodi with Jellyfin for kodi? If not can playlists be saved/exported for use in those contexts?
yeah no shit, america is a melting pot and it’s food culture is an amalgamation of foods from other cultures
And frankly some aspects of most of those are spurious. The origin of the hamburger is debatable mainly because before america it was (probably) just a mince patty served with sauce, much closer to what japan serves as hambagu/ハンバーグ. It likely wasn’t until it came through shipping ports to america that it was served on bread, ground instead of minced (though this was likely a function of the era), and eventually over time evolved to the modern version of what we consider a “hamburger”
Mac and cheese actually goes back to medieval england and was closer to a lasagna. The extruded version is also probably england, or possibly france. Unless you’re simply attributing dried pasta, which is probably an italian invention, but may be arabic
Frankfurter is german but the modern hotdog is american and debatably the idea of serving it in a bun is an american invention, which again goes back to the hamburger and the insanity of prior to america people struggle to combine meat and bread
In closing I bet you’re fun at parties. Also while america sucks at so many things we definitely make the best burgers in the world, hands down
No it was a small hole in the wall place in (I think) kyoto that had a single employee and like 4 tables. The walls were literally covered in Americana shit but heavy on the advertising slant (which is pretty definitive of american culture tbh)
It did have drink bar though, though not nearly as much selection what you’d see at a family diner type place or karaoke
I went to a western restaurant in Japan that was “stereotypical USA” themed and there was mainly kitschy shit all over the place like advertising memorabilia (stuff m&m character statues) and of course american flag themed stuff (but iirc no actual flag)
It was a long time ago but I remember the menu was like burgers, hotdogs, mac and cheese, etc and the food was super mid. Main thing I do remember was the mac and cheese was 100% kraft dinner which was so disappointing. the burger was also weak which is inexcusable because japan has serious burger game
just get a clamp one?
This will depend wildly on what you are planning to put onto it
That said I have a 2 cyber power 825va (I think that’s the model, not sure). It’s like 450watts each iirc. I got them 2 for 1 for about $120 new. One has my server/nas, for which it’s grossly underpowered (maybe 7-10 minutes of runtime, at best), and one powers basically everything else critical in my rack (modem, switch, poe switch, etc) and powers that longer but still not as long (my primary switch is a business switch that was pulled from an ewaste place for nothing, like $15, but it’s got 48 gigabit ports and 5 10gb ports! But it also uses a shocking amount of power).
They work great for my use case. I live in a rural area with a horrendous power grid so I lose power about once every 6 weeks. As a result I have a (very pricey, can’t recommend unless you lose power a lot like me) whole house generator with automatic transfer switch. When power drops out the generator kicks on and switches the house over to generator power which takes about 45-90 seconds, so I really only need these to keep my gear on for that period. Beyond that it’s generator monitoring and if the fuel supply for that is running low network gear is shutdown to conserve power
In a perfect world where I was financially independent I would probably upgrade the server one to at least a 1500va to ensure my storage pool could fully stop and everything could shut down even if power was lost
But most ups will work with monitoring in one way or another. APC and cyberpower work with the apc daemon (probably others) which can easily be implemented into all kinds of software and has support in mac, Linux, windows
Determining battery life depends greatly on load. Rough calculation with power supplies of gear connected, better calculation with something like a kill-a-watt or multimeter and taking a reading for a little while under load, add it all together and add 20-30% to be safe. APC, cyberpower, etc have calculators for this
Buying used can be okay but you do have to be comfortable changing the battery. Additionally there is the risk of something being wrong with it of course, they’re not bulletproof. They’re usually pretty decent though, the bigger thing is that they’re just really expensive to ship, even without batteries
I have a similar experience with the am6b+ and a similar sized library. Even on the stock android browsing my iptv provider which has 23,000+ channels has no issue
But you mention cec - does the x4q+ power off and on with the original display remote? That’s my one nag about the am6b+. Ugoos locked the boot loader and refuses to unlock so cec power on doesn’t work, every other cec command does though.
I just have it wake on lan by having homeassistant send it a packet when it notices my avr turns out as a workaround but this isn’t the most elegant solution and like 1:20 times it hiccups
How is the x4q plus? I frankly dont care about av1 (I’m a store everything in remux/flac person) but the x4q, theoretically, should have a faster processor than my aging am6b+
One suggestion I would make is to copy your install of coreelec onto the emmc directly. In my experience that makes everything a bit “snappier”, it’s easy enough to do, and only takes a few minutes.
“SSH into you device; then run ceemmc -x; type in Y; then type in 1. Once the process is complete, remove your external media and enjoy. To speed up CoreELEC installed on the eMMC on Ugoos devices, go to Settings-> CoreELEC → Hardware → eMMC Speed Mode and change it to HS200/HS400”
ugoos box with coreelec. I use the am6b+. Only format it can’t play is av1
stock runs a stripped down version of android with 0 ads that is very barebones so if you just want streaming apps this is for you. I use this part for my IPTV client but basically any streaming app available on the play store or that can be side loaded with an apk works
You can also flash coreelec and run kodi natively. You can just use the android build of kodi but using the coreelec build has many advantages; it can boot directly to kodi, it’s much snappier within the ui, and most importantly there are far less (basically no) issues with content playback. This option can basically play any file you throw at it natively. You can also set it up to stream files from a pc/nas with jellyfin/plex/emby but this is really the setup for weirdos like me that refuse to subscribe to streaming services (aside from an iptv provider).
Notably the ugoos is the only device, currently, that is licensed to playback Dolby vision content and actually does so properly.
Literally every other option, amazon stuff, shield, chromecast, appletv, pc directly connected to tv, the internal players of TVs, etc don’t play back Dolby vision content correctly in some way. Either they fail at playing certain profiles, they have issues with color accuracy, they flicker, etc. obviously this depends on your setup though, if you have a Samsung dv is meaningless unless you plan to get an oled at some point. That said even if dv is pointless for you it still does hdr/hdr10+ and all the lossless audio stuff/audio pass through
If Dolby vision and av1 are important to you the coreelec team have extended their work to other devices that have av1 support. Do research though because not all of them are fully supported, like some you need a usb Ethernet/wifi adapter which is dumb
Downsides are that it’s tough to set up, like you should be a tinker type person. This is a bit more of a pain than an apple tv or a shield. Also it’s not the easiest thing to get support
But if you’re like me and you’re super paranoid about streaming services harvesting your watch data and selling it, plus super frustrated that they continually fragment and want yet another $17 to access another library that you only want 3 shows of while increasing prices every year and still shoving an excessive amount of advertising in despite having you pay for the service, I would highly recommend just pirating media and using kodi/jellyfin to locally stream.
As an added bonus you get a noticeably higher image quality if you download stuff sourced from physical media because most (tbf not all) streaming networks have shit quality, much less likely to have issues with buffering or the stream dropping from 4k to 480p because the bandwidth wasn’t there for 4 seconds, often can get much better subtitles that are timed and syncd (and in the case of anime like animated and shit), etc. plus no ads, ever, no data harvesting (disconnect your tv from the internet so it doesn’t use brightness patterns and power usage to determine what you’re watching!), no corporate censorship (my collection has Daria with the original music and not the “soundalikes” because mtv couldn’t be bothered to relicense the music. It also has all the blackface episodes of various shows like community and it’s always sunny because I can decide whether something is offensive or satire for myself without netflix or disney to act as a nanny)
the answer is basically all TVs are subsidized to some degree. A list is somewhat pointless because they all do some sketchy shit and as lg has recently shown they reserve the right to change the terms years after the fact with firmware updates, even if you buy a flagship model that cost 3-5k
Basically you need to use it intelligently. Either don’t connect it to the internet at all, only connect it to an intranet/isolated vlan, or (least effective) block every suspicious outgoing request with your router or a dns thing like adguard/pihole.
The alternatives are to buy a non consumer display (eg something for signage or for like a meeting room in an office) which are usually more durable but also often far more expensive (no ad subsidies), the panel quality is generally noticeably worse (unless you’re buying a mediocre tv), and you lose out on enthusiast features (earc, vrr, etc). Or you can get a solid projector; the cheap projectors are usually kind of junk but nice ones are quite nice and often (but not always, they’re increasingly “smart”) have barebones ui/os. This can be pretty impractical for your living situation though
old Doritos bags had so much more soul than the current garbage design
They actually called it internet 2.0 back then