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Cake day: March 19th, 2024

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  • Assuming you want to replace it all, not just home lab use…

    1. Drop their router/modem combo if you can, get your own modem and router. Options are pretty wide here, but what I prefer is a wired router and separate WAPs. I’d lean toward opnsense for the router OS, and I’d use something with as little as two to four ports - one for the modem, one to hit a switch, two more gives you a second modem option (cellular as mentioned) and a second switch to hit if needed. Ideally with 10gbps for future proofing. Dont make your router/FW do lift of a switch, IMO.
    2. Get a switch sized to your network. Since you’re going with a 10" rack, a small 8 port with a couple 10gbit uplinks would fit the bill. Managed only here. You dont need the latest and greatest - I have a stack of Aruba 2920s, 48+4 PoE+ (stacking cables) that I got for free that were being replaced. They came out in 2013 and went end of sale in 2017, and have been in my home lab since. So - any thing managed that handles what you have and a bit more.
    3. In terms of WAP, TP-Link, ASUS, and Zyxel all have decent hardware that works well.

  • Yeah I just dont have a need with no devices to handle it natively, while the rest of my library can be. Building a new htpc media player for the living room next, new server after that.

    New because I’m using a lenovo tiny as the server, which means either I build a new box completely, or I find the right used workststion tiny/mini/micro that can handle av1. Complete build will do a lot more (well, the t/m/m does too, but not to the extent my big box builds are set up for).





  • I dont think I said “random”, but a randomized routine that meets criteria absolutely works, and you dont need AI for that. I dont think anyone said “AI” at all until you just now either.

    Detecting plateau isn’t too hard either, which is when you would get a suggestion to change an exercise or set of exercises in a routine, or a new routine. Which is where change of angle comes in - its about the exercise being performed.

    Can someone do it themselves? Sure, it just takes more work. Which is kind of the point here - you can make a list of exercises that hit a muscle or muscle group just fine without software, which is what this software does. The next logical step is a system that handles routine options, too.

    Even with consistent goals you need to change your routine around.

    Edit: and if you’re injured, you should be meeting with a doctor/pt for any workout information. No system is going to know how to deal with that sensibly.














  • Maybe it’ll detect it as mass storage media and give it access to the built in audio system.

    It won’t. Both will be acting as host, so thats not going to work out.

    What car do you have?

    Else, I’ll just use a bluetooth speaker I have at home. I don’t need good audio for “turn left/turn right”, just to hear it.

    Didn’t you want to use it for your music as well with navidrome?

    I’ve had Waze become useless three times in the span of two years because they pushed updates that made the app unstable enough to not be reliable.

    CoMaps may be up your alley, uses OSM.

    I’ll try the recovery mode for my phone and see if that helps!

    Hope that works for you regardless, it was an absolute pain when my wife’s phone update (Samsung) broke android auto and Bluetooth connections. Especially since I just bought the car a few weeks before.


  • How do you plan to get audio in? Bluetooth? Wired audio input?

    In your first post you were calling it a head unit, which would replace everything. Given the picture, you have a more fully integrated android auto compatible system rather than a traditional head unit, so I understand why the other commenter pointed to that - its similar to what I would have suggested, which would be to get a din cover appropriately sized, then cut out for a screen.

    So the question becomes how do you want to hear and/or see? That would decide placement requirements. For example, I have a nice spot in the passenger seat I could easily hide it behind a panel under the dash, but the audio input I’d have to bring over to the armrest. So I’d run a cable under the carpet to the aux input, bring it up the side of the armrest and plug it in.

    FWIW, your phone may work nicely by rebooting into recovery and wiping the cache partition. That resolved things for my wife and her car, no issues or trouble since.