DaGeek247

shouldn’t Newegg of all places

Heads up; newegg has been shit for returns for about ten years now. Their monitor return policy in particular is notorious for being bad.

Probably for video streaming. If you’re only ever downloading large amounts of read-once content, you don’t actually need to save any of it.

Posted wrong, here’s my whole story:

I have a single AC damper that is fail-close, but was wired as always powered open by the people who put the AC unit into my house before I bought it. This would be fine, except I live near a meat packing plant, and sometimes the air outside stinks. I want to be able to close and open the damper based on various criteria I get from home assistant. (air quality, direction, speed, etc)

This is the AC damper unit: https://www.resideo.com/us/en/pro/products/air/forced-air-zoning/replacement-actuators/replacement-motor-for-eard-ventilation-damper-m847d-vent-u/

This is the shelly plus uni im trying to use: https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-plus-uni

And the multimeter says the output power for the damper (which is powered by my AC unit) outputs 30V AC power.

I was able to power the shelly device by just plugging it into the AC power with Red to Red, and Black to Black. However, it turns out the Shelly device does not send that power out through its two switchable outputs. Those are called “dry circuits” apparently.

So my goal is to power the shelly device, the ac damper device, and have the shelly device ALSO switch the damper on and off. I know it’s possible, I just don’t know how.

So, the above diagram is my attempt to wire the shelly device into the setup. However, whenever I power the relay in the shelly device, the shelly device fries itself. So I’m looking for where I went wrong, and how to make it all work.

Give me a bit. I posted wrong, but it’s being written up now.

Don’t worry about how a video card was used. Unless it was handled by howtobasic, they’re gonna break long after they’re obsolete. You might worry about a bad firmware setup, but you avoid that by looking at the seller rating, not the video card.

there’s an argument to be made that a mining gpu is actually the better card to buy since they never went hot>cold>hot>cold (thus stressing the solder joints) like a regular user would do. But it’s just that; an argument. I have yet to find a well researched article on the effects of long-term gaming as compared to long term mining, but I can tell you that the breaking point for either is long after you would have kept the card in use, even second or third hand.

I know most of the less expensive used hardware is going to be server-shaped/rackmount. Don’t go for it unless you have a garage or shed that you can stuff them in. They put out jet-engine levels of noise and require god tier soundproofing in order to quiet them. The ones that are advertised as quiet are quiet as compared to other server hardware.

You can grab an epyc motherboard that is ATX and will do all you want, and can then move it to a rackmount later if you end up going that way.

The NVIDIA launch has been a bit of a paper one. I don’t expect the prices of anything else to adjust down, rather the 5090 may just end up adjusting itself up. This may change over time, but the next couple of months aren’t likely to have major deals worth holding out for.

Just think of your point that they are using residential IP addresses. How do they get these addresses?

You can ping all of the ipv4 addresses in under an hour. If all you’re looking for is publicly available words written by people, you only have to poke port 80 and then suddenly you have practically every possible small self-hosted website out there.

I have the previous model. It does a great job of playing videos from my server in the other room. It technically can do YouTube, but that’s a pretty horrible experience. It can’t do any other paid streaming services.

But it does do an amazing job of local streaming. It handles most all of the audio and video codecs, and can direct stream just about any video file without too much playing around. I like mine, and definitely recommend it for anyone who also wants a trustworthy local media player.

It really depends on the model. Best to pay attention to it like the previous comment mentioned.

The best way to meet your low power requirement, which you listed as the most important, is by having flash storage. The other half of this is that used hardware is going to be worse at power management than an SBC too. It may be worth doing the math to see how long the power draw difference will take to even out the cost of using flash storage instead of magnetic storage.

The other part of this is that you could just grab a 2.5" hard drive and split the difference on price/GB. https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/xCKhP6/seagate-barracuda-5tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st5000lm000 start with two, and if you run out of space, or obtain more money, add two more from a different brand.

I use syncthing to keep all my documents and pictures synced between my devices.

• Boondock Saints
• The Wiz
• Corpse Bride
• Joe’s Apartment.

I have a bad movie night with family every week, and these were the recent ones. We watched via streaming services.

The last Marvel movie I watched was the end game one. Haven’t bothered with another Marvel TV series or movie since. The last star wars movie I watched was the one where Luke projects his appearance and the bad guys shoot it a lot without doing anything. I haven’t bothered with any of the other tv series or movies for star wars either.

I’m not the usual customer though. The last movies I saw in theaters was wicked and inside out 2.

It’s so the container has the correct local time. It doesn’t matter unless you’re trying to schedule things in the container and don’t want to calculate the offset every time you do.

Or you could just click shutdown without closing any browser windows, safe in the knowledge that they would all load back in whenever you open your browser next?

Or just use a password manager like keepass where the problem of storing passwords has been solved already…

They exist, but they’re not nearly as fleshed out as the bitcoin vanity generators are. https://github.com/danielewood/vanityssh-go

That’s not how hard drives work, and doesn’t take into account that OP might want to download more than one thing at a time.

Hard drives are fastest when they are moving large single files. SSDs are way better than hard drives at lots of small random reads/writes.Setting qbittorrent up so that all the random writes inherent to downloading a torrent go to a small ssd, and then moving that file over to the big hard drive with a single long writer operation is how you make both devices perform to their best.

qbittorrent moves the completed files to the assigned literally as soon as it is done.

Yeah, I use the incomplete folder location as a cache drive for my downloads as well. works quite nicely. It also keeps the incomplete ISOs out of jellyfin until they’re actually ready to watch, so, bonus.

If it’s not going faster for you there’s probably something else that’s broke.

Automatic updates were added about six months ago. https://gitlab.com/AuroraOSS/AuroraStore/-/issues/719

They’ve been working well enough for me.